Once a down-and-out area associated with the red-light district, the neighbourhood of Pigalle has firmly established itself as one of Paris’s most culture filled and fashion fuelled districts. Discover boutique hotels, hip bars, concept stores, and specialty coffee shops which have transformed this pocket of Paris into a global destination. GQ magazine summed it up perfectly: “It's a hood sans pretence.”
Located in the 9th and the 18th arrondissements, the Pigalle quartier makes for a fascinating stroll - much like the city of lights itself. Naturally, we recommend visiting the infamous Moulin Rouge. Fun fact: it was the first building in Paris to be powered by electricity, back in 1885. A more modernist tourist trap is the highly Instagram-worthy pink hues of the Pigalle basketball court. You’ll find the three-way collaboration between fashion brand Pigalle, design and photography agency Ill-Studio, and sports giant Nike, tucked away on the Rue Duperré, nestled amid typical French architecture.
Paris has a hidden air about it. Its best haunts tend to be scattered across the city and down tiny alleys, however, Pigalle wears its heart on its sleeve. All of the sex shops and burlesque clubs leave nothing to the imagination, and you’ll most likely find yourself sipping luxurious coffee right next door.
Here are the spots we recommend.
TO EAT
Dirty Dick
This Pigalle bar has a seedy past, as in another life the space was a brothel, but now, when you enter, you’ll find yourself in a full-fledged tiki bar, overflowing with pseudo-Polynesian flair. Dirty Dick specialties include the Twisted Typhoon, a tropical combination of guava and passionfruit syrup, gin and a splash of lemon and lime juice; and a Guadeloupe frappé – a frozen twist on the Ti Punch, a tipple native to the French Caribbean islands.
Bouillon Pigalle
Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favour watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, affordable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the 2018 version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for a table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good.
Babka Zana
Sarah Amouyal and her husband, Emmanuel Murat, bring Levant-inspired favourites, from rugelach to babka, to this little independent bakery, Babka Zana in South Pigalle. Expect to find babka in all shapes and sizes – individual, cake, pie – and infused with flavours such as cinnamon-muscovado, Iranian and Turkish pistachio-orange blossom, halva-lemon, and a chocolate-hazelnut iteration based on spread A La Mère de Famille.
Bob’s Bake Shop
First came Bob’s Kitchen, and then Bob’s Juice Bar, and now, there’s Bob’s Bake Shop. The shop serves up organic offerings such as delicious bagels (the bread is baked fresh every day, of course), and both mouth-watering waffles and ultra-healthy salads, making it a go-to for any diet or dish you fancy.
TO SLEEP
Grand Pigalle Hotel
Grand Pigalle Hotel (brought by the hospitality visionaries of the Experimental Group) is a great pick for those wanting Pigalle’s buzzy nightlife within walking distance without literally being part of it. This retro-chic boutique hotel boasts 37 sweet and small guest rooms and is home to ‘Frenchie’, the restaurant run by Michelin-starred chef Gregory Marchand.
Maison Souket
This former brothel is hidden away from the world and keeps the Belle Epoque Pigalle of yesteryear alive – at least in spirit. Through the discreet frontage, don’t be fooled by Jacques Garcia’s Belle Epoque meets orientalist decor.
TO SHOP
Oh My Cream
Oh My Cream has a few shops scattered around Paris, with one on rue des Martyrs, and here you’ll find labels including Tata Harper, Pai, and Oskia, as well as niche make-up brands such as RMS Beauty. One short visit, and you’ll understand why Oh My Cream is a firm favourite with beauty editors and skincare fanatics alike.
Maison Kitsuné
Maison Kitsuné adds a touch of modern Parisian style to the Pigalle neighbourhood. Founded in 2002, the brand has a bold, contemporary vision that's gone on to fuse the worlds of fashion, music and coffee throughout its global locations. The Pigalle outpost is housed in a 1862 building designed by celebrated French architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.
Chinemachine
If you’re more of a conscious consumer, and like to shop with a touch of thrift, head to Chinemachine. The destination may feel a little like organised chaos upon entry, but make sure you rummage as this is where you might find some Issey Miyake or Dior hidden in their never ending piles of vintage goods.